Men's Jacket Guide

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How to Pull Off a Smart Casual Look

Smart casual is a balance between clean cut and casual. The phrase is very common in the modern fashion world. It’s usually thought of as something you could wear to work, but still look stylish after hours. It may sound simple, but it is definitely hard to grasp though certainly would impress on a first date without looking out of place at a mid-range restaurant. It is common to find a college teen or student putting on a mixed assortment of second hand sports jacket and a faded pair of roadside jean trousers making him look like a scarecrow! At his age and based on his income that is the best he can put together even if it doesn’t come out as a good look.

Smart casual has some basic tenets:

It is advisable not to wear a tie if you wish to pull off a smart casual outcome. A tie tends to emit formality which a smart casual is not after. However, a knitted tie can be worn with a cardigan or denim jacket but not with a formal suit jacket, to pass off as smart casual.

Smart casual is your work outfit and no one will fault you for overdressing, however, should you fall on the way side, do it on the side of smart. One rather wears a full suit, or even a tuxedo than a t-shirt and jeans in an office environment. Smart casual is a fine line to tread, but easy to manage once you know the rules.

                     Utility Shirt

Should your work rules allow a t-shirt, it is okay to adorn one (then you don’t need a smart casual guide), otherwise a t-shirt is a no go area for smart casual – it is the epitome of full casual. Don’t even think of throwing over a jacket! Instead opt for a utility shirt. A utility shirt is a shirt that really stands to attention. A khaki shirt with a little bit more. It is a work shirt style made of casual buttons up that is made from a heavier cotton material (although cotton/synthetic blends are becoming more common these days) and is specifically designed as a work wear item.

In terms of design, a characteristic utility shirt will have at least two front pockets with possibly a tab collar or tab sleeves. Some utility shirts will even have even pockets along the sleeves while other varieties will be made from material heavy enough to make them almost like jackets (i.e. shackets):

Baggy is sloppy. Go for slim fit, especially for your pants though you might end up looking like a fashion magazine model. Making a mistake with skinny is is safer than making with baggy. Baggy pants scream out that “I am still listening to Luambo Makiadi Franco”. By the way skinny is not for all ages. If over 40 please don’t attempt, you will look out of place and awkward!

The foot department needs to be pampered, but not with sneakers please. Sneakers are very good and some are really expensive upwards of $200, but for a smart casual outcome are a disaster!

Smart casual shoes

Go with some versatile dress shoes or boots. Avoid patent leather or anything that seems to formal. It’s fairly easy to tell what shoes belong with a three-piece suit, and what looks good with denim.

                                        Slacks

Denims are great for smart casual, but slacks should be your first choice. Modern jeans with holes or weirdly dyed with frayed edges are unwelcome. They should be dark, intact and of heavy raw denim. Light jeans are informal.

Go for simple but quality clothes. They last longer and a good eye will notice. It is common to rush for cheap polyester, but note that it will last only a few months. Avoid formal jackets like the tuxedo or a gold buttoned blazer.  A tweed blazer will work miracles partnered with dark denims.

 Lastly your persona should exude coolness. A well trimmed beard on a well washed face oozing a light male fragrance will make a fashion statement.

Difference Between a Blazer, Suit Jacket And A Sport-coat

Difference Between British, Italian, & American Suit Styles

American suit style:

Brooks Brother and J. Press were the pioneer tailors of this style in the early 19^th century.

The rise to popularity of these suits came in 1920’s by Ivy Leaguers. That time the suit was baggy and not stylish, however today it is has become more cut to the shape of the body. Its characteristics include:

-               Almost no padding

-               Low armhole

-               Loose fitting

-               Sleeves have 3 buttons

-               Flap pockets

It is made for a big/wide body build and it came about out of the need for the wealth business class to dress differently from everyday people. The jacket is a straight silhouette and is single vented. The pants are full cut with no pleats.

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The British Style suit:

Its creation was inspired by Henry Poole’s dinner jacket as a luxury good for military elite and the high political class.

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These type of suits are ideal for average built men since they are not too boxy nor too slim.

They have coats which are cut closer to the body. They have slightly narrower and defined shoulders with higher armhole. Coats have two side vents and they can be single or double-breasted. British cut jackets tend to have heavier cloth, stiffer chest canvas and thicker shoulder pads.

The trousers are generously cut with a high waist and two or three pleats and they have more shape than American cut trousers. You look more fitted with British suits and they will give you more contour.

Saville Row in London’s Mayfair, is the home of traditional British custom suit makers and is the place to go when searching for highest British tailoring excellence.

Italian suit style

This style is known for its trendiness. It is cut very slim, the silhouette is sleek, modern and very stylish. The jackets originally did not have any vents but today two vents are common in Italian suits. They are shorter and tight-fitting and shoulders are padded while lapel notches and buttons are positioned higher than in British and American jackets. Pockets are flapless and jackets have pronounced V-shape.

Italians prefer to use lighter cloths, higher gorge lines, and less overall padding.

Pants have tapered waist and hips are snug to the body. Most credible designer for the rise of the Italian style are Brioni and Giorgio Armani.

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