Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Difference Between British, Italian, & American Suit Styles


American suit style:

Brooks Brother and J. Press were the pioneer tailors of this style in the early 19th century.
The rise to popularity of these suits came in 1920’s by Ivy Leaguers. That time the suit was baggy and not stylish, however today it is has become more cut to the shape of the body. Its characteristics include:
-               Almost no padding
-               Low armhole
-               Loose fitting
-               Sleeves have 3 buttons
-               Flap pockets

It is made for a big/wide body build and it came about out of the need for the wealth business class to dress differently from everyday people. The jacket is a straight silhouette and is single vented. The pants are full cut with no pleats.



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The British Style suit:

Its creation was inspired by Henry Poole’s dinner jacket as a luxury good for military elite and the high political class.




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These type of suits are ideal for average built men since they are not too boxy nor too slim.
They have coats which are cut closer to the body. They have slightly narrower and defined shoulders with higher armhole. Coats have two side vents and they can be single or double-breasted. British cut jackets tend to have heavier cloth, stiffer chest canvas and thicker shoulder pads.

The trousers are generously cut with a high waist and two or three pleats and they have more shape than American cut trousers. You look more fitted with British suits and they will give you more contour.
Saville Row in London’s Mayfair, is the home of traditional British custom suit makers and is the place to go when searching for highest British tailoring excellence.

Italian suit style

This style is known for its trendiness. It is cut very slim, the silhouette is sleek, modern and very stylish. The jackets originally did not have any vents but today two vents are common in Italian suits. They are shorter and tight-fitting and shoulders are padded while lapel notches and buttons are positioned higher than in British and American jackets. Pockets are flapless and jackets have pronounced V-shape.
Italians prefer to use lighter cloths, higher gorge lines, and less overall padding.
Pants have tapered waist and hips are snug to the body. Most credible designer for the rise of the Italian style are Brioni and Giorgio Armani.




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