American suit style:
The rise to popularity of these suits came in 1920’s by
Ivy Leaguers. That time the suit was baggy and not stylish, however today it is
has become more cut to the shape of the body. Its characteristics include:
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Almost no padding
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Low armhole
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Loose fitting
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Sleeves have 3 buttons
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Flap pockets
It is made for a big/wide body build and it came about
out of the need for the wealth business class to dress differently from everyday
people. The jacket is a straight silhouette and is single vented. The pants are
full cut with no pleats.
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The
British Style suit:
Its creation was inspired by Henry Poole’s dinner jacket
as a luxury good for military elite and the high political class.
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These type of suits are ideal for average built men since
they are not too boxy nor too slim.
They have coats which are cut closer to the body. They
have slightly narrower and defined shoulders with higher armhole. Coats have two
side vents and they can be single or double-breasted. British cut jackets
tend to have heavier cloth, stiffer chest canvas and thicker shoulder pads.
The trousers are generously cut with a high waist and two
or three pleats and they have more shape than American cut trousers. You look
more fitted with British suits and they will give you more contour.
Saville Row in London’s Mayfair, is the home of traditional
British custom suit makers and is the place to go when searching for
highest British tailoring excellence.
Italian suit style
This style is known for its trendiness. It is cut very
slim, the silhouette is sleek, modern and very stylish. The jackets originally
did not have any vents but today two vents are common in Italian suits. They
are shorter and tight-fitting and shoulders are padded while lapel notches and
buttons are positioned higher than in British and American jackets. Pockets are
flapless and jackets have pronounced V-shape.
Italians prefer to use lighter cloths, higher gorge
lines, and less overall padding.
Pants have tapered waist and hips are snug to the body. Most
credible designer for the rise of the Italian style are Brioni and Giorgio
Armani.
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